Resin FAQ & Troubleshooting

Sticky or soft resin can be caused by an incorrect resin-to-hardener ratio, incomplete mixing, unsuitable curing temperatures, too much pigment, mica, glitter or other additive, or moisture coming into contact with the resin while it is curing.

Always measure your resin and hardener accurately according to the instructions for the specific resin you are using, and mix thoroughly, scraping the sides and bottom of your mixing cup. Be careful not to overload the resin with colourants or additives, as too much can interfere with the curing process.

Keep your piece somewhere warm, dry and protected from moisture while it cures. Even condensation or unexpected moisture landing on the surface can affect the finish and cure.

If your resin is still sticky after the recommended curing time, don't simply pour another layer over uncured resin ,work out what caused the problem first, as another coat won't correct improperly cured resin underneath.

If your epoxy resin hasn’t cured, first check that the resin and hardener were measured at the correct ratio for that particular product. Even a small measuring error can affect the cure.

Other common causes include not mixing thoroughly enough, working in temperatures that are too cold, adding too much pigment, mica, glitter or other additive, or moisture getting into the resin.

Also check the stated curing time for your resin. Some resins may feel firm quite quickly but take considerably longer to reach their full cure.

If the resin remains liquid or very soft well beyond its expected curing time, it is unlikely that simply leaving it for longer will fix a mixing-ratio problem.

Resin can take longer to cure when the room or resin temperature is too low. Epoxy resin generally prefers a warm, stable environment, and cooler conditions can significantly slow the curing process.

Also check that you used the correct mixing ratio, mixed both parts thoroughly and haven't added too much pigment or other additive.

Remember that different resins have very different curing times. A fast-set resin may cure within hours, while other resin systems can take much longer to become fully cured.

Try to keep the piece at a consistent temperature while curing rather than moving it between warm and cold environments.

Resin can cure faster than expected if your room is very warm, the resin itself is warm, or you've mixed a large quantity in one container. Epoxy creates heat as it cures, so a larger volume of mixed resin can generate more heat and accelerate the reaction.

Your choice of resin also matters. Fast-set resins are specifically designed to have a shorter working time, whereas artwork or slower-curing resins generally give you more time to pour and create.

Always check the working time rather than just the cure time before starting. Have your pigments, glitters, moulds and tools prepared before you mix so you're not rushing once the reaction begins.

And importantly, never try to slow curing resin by putting it in a fridge or freezer, use the resin within its recommended working conditions.

Heat is a normal part of the epoxy resin curing process. When resin and hardener are mixed together, they create an exothermic reaction, which means heat is produced as the resin cures.

However, resin can become too hot if you mix a large quantity and leave it sitting in the mixing cup, if your working environment is very warm, or if you pour the resin deeper than the recommended pour depth.

Different resins are designed for different jobs. A resin intended for thin artwork or coatings should not be used for a deep cast unless the manufacturer specifically says it can be.

Always follow the recommended maximum pour depth and batch size for your resin. If you need to create a deeper piece, use a resin specifically designed for deep casting.

Bubbles are very common in epoxy resin and are often introduced during mixing. Mix slowly and thoroughly rather than whipping the resin, and avoid repeatedly lifting your mixing stick in and out of the mixture.

Cold resin is also thicker and can hold onto bubbles more easily, so make sure your resin and workspace are at the recommended working temperature before you begin.

Bubbles can also come from porous materials such as wood, dried flowers or other inclusions as trapped air escapes into the resin. Sealing porous items before pouring can help.

Once poured, allow bubbles time to rise naturally. If your resin instructions allow it, you can use an appropriate bubble-removal method, but take care with heat, too much heat can damage the resin, mould or surface and can accelerate curing.

Fish eyes are small areas where the resin pulls away from the surface, leaving little craters or bare patches instead of a smooth, even finish.

The most common cause is surface contamination. Oils from your hands, silicone, grease, dust, polish, cleaning-product residue or other contaminants can prevent the resin from adhering properly.

Preparation is really important. Make sure your surface is clean, dry and free from grease or residue before pouring, and try not to touch the prepared surface with your fingers.

Fish eyes can also occur if the surface itself isn't suitable for resin or hasn't been prepared correctly.

If fish eyes appear, don't keep adding more resin while everything is still moving in the hope that they'll disappear. Allow the piece to cure, identify the likely cause, then clean and prepare the surface properly before recoating.

Cloudy or milky-looking resin can be caused by several things, but moisture is one of the biggest culprits. Make sure your mixing equipment, moulds, surfaces and anything you are embedding in the resin are completely dry.

Very cold resin or a cold working environment can also affect clarity, and lots of tiny trapped air bubbles can sometimes make otherwise clear resin appear cloudy.

If you're adding flowers, wood or other natural materials, make sure they are fully dried and appropriately sealed where necessary before putting them into resin.

Also check your resin before you start. If Part A has become cloudy or appears to have crystallised during cold storage, follow the manufacturer's instructions for that particular resin before mixing it with the hardener.

An uneven, wavy or rippled resin surface can happen for several reasons. First, check that your work surface is completely level before pouring, resin will naturally flow towards the lowest point.

Temperature can also play a part. If the resin becomes too cold, too hot, or experiences significant temperature changes while curing, it may not level as expected.

Using too little resin for the surface area, overworking the resin once it has started to cure, or repeatedly applying heat can also leave an uneven finish.

Make sure your surface is clean, dry and properly prepared, pour enough resin to achieve the intended coverage, and once the resin begins to cure, try to leave it alone to do its job rather than continuing to move or heat it.

Resin is very good at attracting dust, fibres and tiny hairs while it is curing, even when your workspace looks perfectly clean.

Before pouring, wipe down your work area, check your mould or surface carefully and make sure your mixing equipment is clean. It also helps to tie hair back and avoid fluffy clothing while working with resin.

Once you've poured, inspect the surface carefully while the resin is still workable. Any visible hairs or debris can often be removed carefully with clean tweezers.

While the piece cures, protect it with a clean dust cover where possible, making sure the cover cannot touch the resin.

If you only discover something after the resin has fully cured, don't panic, depending on the piece, it may be possible to sand the affected area and apply another finishing coat.

All epoxy resins can be affected by UV light, heat and ageing over time, although a good-quality resin with UV resistance and anti-yellowing protection will help to slow this process considerably.

Yellowing can happen more quickly if a finished piece is left in strong direct sunlight, exposed to excessive heat, or if unsuitable colourants or additives have been used.

For pieces where a crystal-clear finish is important, choose a high-quality UV-resistant, anti-yellowing resin, such as the Apex Resin ranges we stock at Create & Bloom, and always use additives designed to be compatible with epoxy resin.

Also remember that UV resistant does not mean completely UV-proof, even a premium clear resin should be cared for properly to keep it looking its best for as long as possible.

Yes — in most cases you can pour another layer of resin over a cured layer. This is a great way to add depth, detail, colour or a fresh glossy finish to your work.

If the first layer is still within the resin manufacturer’s recommended recoat window, you may be able to pour the next layer without additional preparation.

If the resin has fully cured, it is usually best to prepare the surface first. This may involve lightly sanding it to create a key for the next layer, then thoroughly removing all sanding dust and making sure the surface is clean, dry and free from grease or contamination.

Always check the instructions for the particular resin you're using, as recoat times and preparation can vary between products.

And don't use another layer to try to hide uncured or sticky resin underneath — the original curing problem needs to be dealt with first.

Sometimes, but it depends on why the resin hasn’t cured.

If the resin is simply taking longer because the room has been too cold, moving the piece to a warmer, stable environment and giving it more time may help.

However, if the problem was caused by an incorrect resin-to-hardener ratio, incomplete mixing, too much additive or contamination, waiting longer is unlikely to make it cure correctly.

If you have patches of completely uncured or liquid resin, these usually need to be carefully removed before the piece can be repaired. Any remaining surface then needs to be properly cleaned and prepared before recoating.

Don't pour fresh resin straight over wet, liquid or badly uncured resin hoping it will make the layer underneath cure — it won't correct the original problem.

The good news is that many resin pieces can be rescued, so don't automatically throw your project away!

Yes! Sanding and recoating resin is a great way to repair imperfections, remove scratches or create a fresh glossy finish.

Make sure the resin has fully cured before sanding. Use an appropriate abrasive and sand evenly, paying particular attention to any raised areas, dust marks or imperfections you want to remove.

Don't worry if the resin looks cloudy, scratched or dull after sanding, this is completely normal. A fresh clear coat of resin can restore that beautiful glossy, transparent finish.

Before recoating, remove all sanding dust and make sure the surface is completely clean, dry and free from grease or contamination.

Take extra care around edges and corners, as these areas can be easier to sand through.

No — different resin formulations are designed for different types of projects, and choosing the right resin can make a huge difference to your finished piece.

For example, an artwork or coating resin is designed for relatively thin pours and creating beautiful surface finishes. A deep-cast resin cures more slowly and is designed for thicker pours, while fast-set resins are useful when you need a much quicker working and curing process.

You may also choose a specialist resin for things such as tumblers, tables, jewellery, moulds or professional finishing coats.

Before starting a project, check the resin's recommended pour depth, working time, cure time and intended use rather than assuming one resin will work for everything.

Choosing the resin to suit the project will usually give you better results and far fewer problems.

If you're new to resin, look for a good-quality epoxy resin with a comfortable working time. This gives you time to measure, mix, add your colours and pour without feeling rushed.

For your first few projects, it's often easier to start with smaller pieces such as coasters, artwork or simple moulds rather than jumping straight into large or deep pours.

Choose a resin specifically designed for the type of project you want to make, and always read the instructions before you begin, particularly the mixing ratio, working time, recommended pour depth and curing time.

At Create & Bloom, we stock a range of Apex Resin products for different types of making, and we're always happy to help you choose the right one if you're unsure.

Most importantly, don't be intimidated by resin. Measure accurately, mix thoroughly and start simple, your confidence will grow very quickly with practice.

Yes! Mica powders, pigment pastes and glitters are fantastic ways to add colour, shimmer, sparkle and effects to resin.

The important thing is to use products that are suitable for resin and not to overload your mixture. Adding too much pigment, powder or other additive can affect how your resin flows and, in some cases, interfere with curing.

Start with a small amount and build the colour gradually. Remember that mica powders and pigment pastes behave differently, mica creates beautiful shimmer and movement, while pigment pastes can produce stronger, more opaque colours.

Glitters can be mixed directly into resin or added in layers depending on the effect you're trying to create.

Muddy colours usually happen when too many colours are allowed to mix together, particularly colours that sit opposite each other on the colour wheel.

Resin continues to move after you've poured it, so colours that looked beautifully separate at first can gradually blend together.

Try working with a smaller, considered colour palette and think about how your chosen colours will interact before you pour. You can also use metallics, white, clear resin or glitter to create separation and contrast between colours.

Learning a little colour theory can completely transform your resin work, it's one of the best ways to create more intentional, harmonious colour palettes rather than simply hoping the colours work together.

Whether glitter sinks, floats or stays suspended depends on the weight and size of the glitter and the viscosity of your resin.

Heavier or larger glitters are more likely to sink while the resin is still very fluid. Finer, lightweight glitters can stay suspended more easily, particularly in a thicker resin.

If you want glitter distributed throughout your piece, you may need to work in layers or allow your resin to thicken slightly within its safe working time before adding certain glitters.

Different glitters can behave very differently, so experimenting is part of the fun. You can also use sinking deliberately, sometimes the way glitter settles creates a gorgeous effect you wouldn't get by suspending it evenly.

And that's the final FAQ! 🎉 Once you've put those three in, the accordion itself is complete. Then we should tidy the page so we don't have all that duplicate FAQ text sitting underneath/above it.